Description
Electra Bugle Horn
Also translates to 'hey there,' 'coming through,' and 'sup.'
-Arguably the most fun way to alert other riders or pedestrians of your presence
-Classic bugle-style horn has a deep tone
-Easily mounts to bicycle handlebars without tools
-Classic steel horn with a large rubber bulb and a gloss painted surface
-Plastic bracket with silicone strap fits a wide variety of handlebars
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Scooter Bars Information
Bar Height
Choosing your bars height is a matter of preference, when choosing the right height ensure the bar reaches somewhere between your hip and navel. A good tip when measuring/cutting your bars height is to follow your waist line as it is a comfortable preferred height by the majority of riders. When cutting your bars avoid them wider than its height, as it can make your scooter feel imbalanced and hinder your progression.
Bar Width
Like height, bar width is a matter of preference. A good guideline to choosing a bar is using the width of your shoulders. That will give you a good starting point to see if you would prefer a smaller width. Keep in mind that you can always choose a wider bar and cut it to your preference!
Inner Bar Diameter
There are two main diameters when it comes to scooter bars, these are oversized and standard. the Internal diameter of your bars downtube will determine what the right size and kind of fork your scooter needs.
Outer Bar Diameter
There are two main diameters when it comes to scooter bars, these are oversized and standard. the external diameter of your bars downtube will determine what the right size and kind of clamp your scooter needs.
Compression
Compression choice is another aspect of your scooter that is all up to your personal preference. However, some compression types require more maintenance than others, and in some cases will not be compatible with your bars. The three most common compressions seen today are HIC, IHC, and SCS. When using HIC and ICH a cut out slit is required on your bars so the clamp can be tightened. Keep In mind that your bars should not have a slit if you are using SCS compression.
Material
Scooter bars are available in a wide array of different materials, Steel, aluminum, and titanium! Steel and aluminum being the most cost-effective and commonly bought option. Typically, available in oversized and standard diameters giving them a wide array of compression options. Aluminum being a lighter option, occasionally at the cost of strength. Often with a standard inner diameter but an oversized external. Making them great for SCS and IHC compression, but also not compatible with HIC. Titanium bars generally only come in oversized diameter, making them a perfect option for SCS. Paired with an oversized clamp titanium is also compatible with HIC and IHC. Rigorously tested, they are some of the lightest and strongest bars on the market, but typically at a steep price option. Keep in mind that cutting titanium bars is a very difficult task, often requiring state of the art equipment, and practiced techniques.
Signature
There are a very wide range of signature parts in the scooter world. From, bars to wheels, and all the way to decks. A signature part is a special product that is designed in collaboration with a rider on those specific brands team. Riders get to choose their own graphic and colour in most cases, expressing who they are on and off the scooter. It is important to support and purchase signature parts, because a portion always goes back to that specific rider who puts their life on the line every day, for the love of scootering.
Stock Slit
Referring to the incision at the bottom of the bars downtube the “Slit” makes it possible to secure the downtube on to the fork. When using the compression systems HIC, ICS, IHC, or a threaded fork it is necessary to have a slit in the bars. However, if you are using an SCS type compression the downtube should not have a slit. Keep in mind if your compression system requires a slit, it should always at least be the height of the clamp.
Scooter Deck Information
Deck Length
Similar to the length of your bars, deck length is a matter of preference. The length of your deck Is soley based on what feels comfortable to you. Although it is preference based it is always good to take in to account your height and build size. Someone who is a little younger with a smaller build would most likely prefer a deck shorter in length. The shorter length will feel smaller and lighter, therefore making it easier to whip around and excel your trick progression.
Deck Width
Like length, deck width is also preference based. Most riders prefer to base the width of their deck on their style of riding and trick selection. Riders who are more interested in the “park” based scene usually go with a smaller deck from 4.5 to 5 inches as it is quite usually lighter, therefore making it easier to whip around. Riders who are more interested in the “street” based scene usually prefer a wider boxed style deck, usually ranging from 5.5 to 7 inches. This style of deck gives you more grind space, making it easier to lock in to street style obstacles like rails and ledges.
Deck Spacers
Deck spacers come in various different sizes. The size of your wheels will determine the size of spacers needed for your deck. No need to worry about making the right selection of spacers. All decks come with them fit to size. They are used to fill the gaps between your wheels core and the deck ends.
Dropout Shape
What deciphers the choice of your dropout shape may be similar to your deck width choice. The ‘boxed end deck’ is more preferred by “street” riders as it has wide peg like ends, making it easier to lock in and grind obstacles. Non-boxed ends are more preferred by “park” and peg riders. Park riders usually do not have the need for the square drop outs as they do less grinds on obstacles.
Head Tube Angle
Headtube angles can range from 82 to 84 degrees. While this might not seem like a lot, the numbers matter! The lower the number, the easier it is to perform tail and heel whips. The higher the number, the more distance between the bars and your body.
Concave
Concave refers to the longitudinal curvature of the deck. The higher this curvature, the more pressure you can put on the edges of your deck, which improves the steering and can enable you to spin your deck easier during tricks. Different decks have different Degrees of concave, some having none at all. Concave is a matter of preference and should affect your choice of deck.
Wheel Diameter
Wheel WIdth
Scooter Clamp Information
Scooter Forks Information
Scooter Wheels Information
Wheel Diameter
Wheel diameter refers to the outer circumference of a wheel's urethane. Wheels come in five different diameters. 100mm, 110mm, 115mm, 120mm, 125mm. Please keep in mind your wheels diameter when choosing your forks and deck as all are not compatible with certain diameters.
Wheel Width
Wheel Diameter Compatibility
Wheel Width Compatibility
Wheel Hardness
The scooter wheels durometer scale ranges from 0-100a, 100a being the hardest. Although most wheels are 85a they range in hardness. Harder urethane typically can last longer and is faster, while softer urethane can wear down quicker it usually allows for more grip. Like most factors of picking your scooter parts, your wheel hardness is one hundred percent preference based.
Core Design
