Description
Ride Warpig 2022
Features:
- Tapered Bi-Radial Sidecut: A twin sidecut (with taper) which allows for the underfoot width of a wide board in the tip/tail width of a standard size. This improves leverage on landings, grip through turns, and stability on flat base.
- Sintered, Stone Ground Base: High-end, sintered 4000 Ptex base material that is more durable, harder, and faster than extruded.
- Performance™ Core: High strength Aspen is combined with Bamboo and lightweight Paulownia wood to provide the perfect balance of strong and light.
- Cleave-Edge™: Nearly 50% more steel, delivers unmatched resistance to edge cracking and can be detuned for larger radii.
- NEW! Slim Walls: By creating a fully 3D composite structure over Slime Wall material, this revolutionary technology results in more efficient energy transfer, lighter weight construction, and even better dampening.
- Double Impact Plates: Added underneath each binding area to improve compressive strength and prevent board breaks where it matters most.
- Carbon Array 3™: Power distribution technology that provides total board control in every stance location. Widespread carbon stringers placed at the binding zone gather input from any stance width and all pressure angles. Rider input is then channeled to the opposing contact point for maximum board control.
- Hybrid Glass: triaxal on top, biaxal on base; balanced torsional flex and stiffness for better response with speed.
- Thin Con: Each Ride board features Thin Construction with tapered tips and tails. This reduces swing weight, enhances tip flex, and improves overall durability.
Profile: Reverse Camber / Rocker
In a snowboard with rocker the center of the board is the only true contact point. This makes turn initiation easier, so you're less likely to catch an edge. This profile also makes it easier to bend, making it great for buttering. The lifted nose and tail make floating in pow effortless. This translates well for those looking to progress on rails and in the park as well.
Shape: Directional Tapered
Directional tapered boards excel in a pure mountain environment. A directional shape with a longer, softer nose and a shorter, stiffer tail get taken to the next level with a tapering design—which sees a wider nose tapering into a narrower tail. The advantages are two-fold: this shape not only sees mega-enhanced floatation with a surfy feel in deep powder, it also creates a faster turning snowboard which is noticeably more nimble and great for tree riding.
Flex: 5 - 6 (Scale 1 - 10)
Versatility at it's finest. From the park to the peak and anywhere in between.
Base: Sintered
High-end base material that is harder, more durable, and faster than extruded bases.
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Scooter Bars Information
Bar Height
Choosing your bars height is a matter of preference, when choosing the right height ensure the bar reaches somewhere between your hip and navel. A good tip when measuring/cutting your bars height is to follow your waist line as it is a comfortable preferred height by the majority of riders. When cutting your bars avoid having them wider than its height, as it can make your scooter feel imbalanced and hinder your progression.
Bar Width
Like height, bar width is a matter of preference. A good guideline to choosing a bar is using the width of your shoulders. That will give you a good starting point to see if you would prefer a smaller width. Keep in mind that you can always choose a wider bar and cut it to your preference!
Inner Bar Diameter
There are two main diameters when it comes to scooter bars, these are oversized and standard. the Internal diameter of your bars downtube will determine what the right size and kind of fork your scooter needs.
Outer Bar Diameter
There are two main diameters when it comes to scooter bars, these are oversized and standard. the external diameter of your bars downtube will determine what the right size and kind of clamp your scooter needs.
Compression
Compression choice is another aspect of your scooter that is all up to your personal preference. However, some compression types require more maintenance than others, and in some cases will not be compatible with your bars. The three most common compressions seen today are HIC, IHC, and SCS. When using HIC and ICH a cut out slit is required on your bars so the clamp can be tightened. Keep In mind that your bars should not have a slit if you are using SCS compression.
Material
Scooter bars are available in a wide array of different materials, Steel, aluminum, and titanium! Steel and aluminum being the most cost-effective and commonly bought option. Typically, available in oversized and standard diameters giving them a wide array of compression options. Aluminum being a lighter option, occasionally at the cost of strength. Often with a standard inner diameter but an oversized external. Making them great for SCS and IHC compression, but also not compatible with HIC. Titanium bars generally only come in oversized diameter, making them a perfect option for SCS. Paired with an oversized clamp titanium is also compatible with HIC and IHC. Rigorously tested, they are some of the lightest and strongest bars on the market, but typically at a steep price option. Keep in mind that cutting titanium bars is a very difficult task, often requiring state of the art equipment, and practiced techniques.
Signature
There are a very wide range of signature parts in the scooter world. From, bars to wheels, and all the way to decks. A signature part is a special product that is designed in collaboration with a rider on those specific brands team. Riders get to choose their own graphic and colour in most cases, expressing who they are on and off the scooter. It is important to support and purchase signature parts, because a portion always goes back to that specific rider who puts their life on the line every day, for the love of scootering.
Stock Slit
Referring to the incision at the bottom of the bars downtube the “Slit” makes it possible to secure the downtube on to the fork. When using the compression systems HIC, ICS, IHC, or a threaded fork it is necessary to have a slit in the bars. However, if you are using an SCS type compression the downtube should not have a slit. Keep in mind if your compression system requires a slit, it should always at least be the height of the clamp.
Backsweep
Backsweep defines when the bars handles are angled back a small amount, similar to bicycle bars. This can add comfort, but can also take time to get used to.
Scooter Deck Information
Deck Length
Similar to the length of your bars, deck length is a matter of preference. The length of your deck Is soley based on what feels comfortable to you. Although it is preference based it is always good to take in to account your height and build size. Someone who is a little younger with a smaller build would most likely prefer a deck shorter in length. The shorter length will feel smaller and lighter, therefore making it easier to whip around and excel your trick progression.
Deck Width
Like length, deck width is also preference based. Most riders prefer to base the width of their deck on their style of riding and trick selection. Riders who are more interested in the “park” based scene usually go with a smaller deck from 4.5 to 5 inches as it is quite usually lighter, therefore making it easier to whip around. Riders who are more interested in the “street” based scene usually prefer a wider boxed style deck, usually ranging from 5.5 to 7 inches. This style of deck gives you more grind space, making it easier to lock in to street style obstacles like rails and ledges.
Deck Spacers
Deck spacers come in various different sizes. The size of your wheels will determine the size of spacers needed for your deck. No need to worry about making the right selection of spacers. All decks come with them fit to size. They are used to fill the gaps between your wheels core and the deck ends.
Dropout Shape
What deciphers the choice of your dropout shape may be similar to your deck width choice. The ‘boxed end deck’ is more preferred by “street” riders as it has wide peg like ends, making it easier to lock in and grind obstacles. Non-boxed ends are more preferred by “park” and peg riders. Park riders usually do not have the need for the square drop outs as they do less grinds on obstacles.
Head Tube Angle
Headtube angles can range from 82 to 84 degrees. While this might not seem like a lot, the numbers matter! The lower the number, the easier it is to perform tail and heel whips. The higher the number, the more distance between the bars and your body.
Concave
Concave refers to the longitudinal curvature of the deck. The higher this curvature, the more pressure you can put on the edges of your deck, which improves the steering and can enable you to spin your deck easier during tricks. Different decks have different Degrees of concave, some having none at all. Concave is a matter of preference and should affect your choice of deck.
Brake Mounting
The scooter brake is typically mounted with 2-3 allen head bolts, in which are placed through the pre-drilled holes in the deck. The bolts are then fastened with nuts within the inside rear extrusion of the deck. All decks come with a brake or fender pre-installed.
Signature
There are a very wide range of signature parts in the scooter world. From, bars to wheels, and all the way to decks. A signature part is a special product that is designed in collaboration with a rider on those specific brands team. Riders get to choose their own graphic and colour in most cases, expressing who they are on and off the scooter. It is important to support and purchase signature parts, because a portion always goes back to that specific rider who puts their life on the line every day, for the love of scootering.
Wheel Diameter
Wheel diameter refers to the outer circumference of a wheel's urethane. Wheels come in five different diameters. 100mm, 110mm, 115mm, 120mm, 125mm. Please keep in mind your wheels diameter when choosing your forks and deck as all are not compatible with certain diameters.
Wheel WIdth
The width of a scooter wheel is the horizontal measurement in which makes contact with the ground when riding. Scooter wheels come in two main widths. 30mm and 24mm. 30mm only being created recently, and is becoming more and more preferred by majority of seasoned riders. 30mm wheels have a larger point of contact with the ground, in conclusion giving you a better balance point for manuals and also more control during fakies. 24mms will have less material ultimately giving you a lighter wheel.
Scooter Clamp Information
Inner Bar Diameter
There are two main diameters when it comes to scooter bars, these are oversized and standard. the Internal diameter of your bars downtube will determine what the right size and kind of fork your scooter needs.
Outer Bar Diameter
There are two main diameters when it comes to scooter bars, these are oversized and standard. the external diameter of your bars downtube will determine what the right size and kind of clamp your scooter needs.
Compression
Compression choice is another aspect of your scooter that is all up to your personal preference. However, some compression types require more maintenance than others, and in some cases will not be compatible with your bars. The three most common compressions seen today are HIC, IHC, and SCS. When using HIC and ICH a cut out slit is required on your bars so the clamp can be tightened. Keep In mind that your bars should not have a slit if you are using SCS compression.
Bolt Count
Generally based on the type of clamp you buy the ‘bolt count’ can vary from 1-5 bolts. HIC and IHC clamps varying from 1-3, well scs clamps always have 4 or more.
Compression Bolt
Available in two different sizes, m6 & m8. The compression bolt is used to compress the scs clamp down in to the forks. M6 bolts typically have a 5mm allen head, well m8 have a 6mm.
Spreader Bolt
The spreader bolt is a non-typical bolt found on some scs clamps. Typically, on the opposite side of your clamp. The spreader bolt is used to stretch your clamp, making it easier to remove your bars and or forks off your scooter.
Shim
A clamps ‘shim’ often is included with clamps that fit standard and oversized bars. When using standard bars on an oversized clamp a shim is required. If your clamp happens to not include one, don’t worry! One can be bought separately
Signature
There are a very wide range of signature parts in the scooter world. From, bars to wheels, and all the way to decks. A signature part is a special product that is designed in collaboration with a rider on those specific brands team. Riders get to choose their own graphic and colour in most cases, expressing who they are on and off the scooter. It is important to support and purchase signature parts, because a portion always goes back to that specific rider who puts their life on the line every day, for the love of scootering.
Scooter Forks Information
Compression
Compression choice is another aspect of your scooter that is all up to your personal preference. However, some compression types require more maintenance than others, and in some cases will not be compatible with your bars. The three most common compressions seen today are HIC, IHC, and SCS. When using HIC and ICH a cut out slit is required on your bars so the clamp can be tightened. Keep In mind that your bars should not have a slit if you are using SCS compression.
Wheel Diameter
Wheel diameter refers to the outer circumference of a wheel's urethane. Wheels come in five different diameters. 100mm, 110mm, 115mm, 120mm, 125mm. Please keep in mind your wheels diameter when choosing your forks and deck as all are not compatible with certain diameters.
Wheel Width
The width of a scooter wheel is the horizontal measurement in which makes contact with the ground when riding. Scooter wheels come in two main widths. 30mm and 24mm. 30mm only being created recently, and is becoming more and more preferred by majority of seasoned riders. 30mm wheels have a larger point of contact with the ground, in conclusion giving you a better balance point for manuals and also more control during fakies. 24mms will have less material ultimately giving you a lighter wheel.
Axel Compatibility
Fork axels are available in two different sizes. Typically, most forks come with an 8mm axel, but are available in 12mm for 12 standard forks. 12 standard forks are usually bigger as they are designed to fit 12 standard wheels (30 x 125).
Fork Type
Scooter forks are categorized in to two main types. Non-integrated and Integrated. These integration terms are referring to the forks crown race. Most if not all modern-day forks come with an integrated crown race, so this is not a matter to worry much about. The only scooters now a days that may come with a non-integrated fork are very entry level or fold up completes.
Fork Length
The forks length is the vertical measurement of your fork. The length of most forks are generally around the same. Keep in mind you may need spacers depending on the length of your fork and decks headtube.
Fork Design
You can divide scooter forks in to three main types. Two-piece aluminum threadless forks. Generally, very light and affordable. You will see these a lot on older or lower end completes. One-piece aluminum forks. The scooter industries standard. Most higher end forks are one piece and made of aluminum. Light, strong, and made for better durability. Lastly chromoly or steel threaded or threadless forks. They tend to be strong and affordable at the cost of a heavier weight.
Starnut
The star fangled nut — or 'star nut', as it's known is the threaded hole in the fork that allows the scs compression bolt to be fastned in. The starnut allows for the fork and headset components to be pulled into place in the decks head tube. Most if not all scs forks come with a starnut pre-installed.
Signature
There are a very wide range of signature parts in the scooter world. From, bars to wheels, and all the way to decks. A signature part is a special product that is designed in collaboration with a rider on those specific brands team. Riders get to choose their own graphic and colour in most cases, expressing who they are on and off the scooter. It is important to support and purchase signature parts, because a portion always goes back to that specific rider who puts their life on the line every day, for the love of scootering.
Scooter Wheels Information
Wheel Diameter
Wheel diameter refers to the outer circumference of a wheel's urethane. Wheels come in five different diameters. 100mm, 110mm, 115mm, 120mm, 125mm. Please keep in mind your wheels diameter when choosing your forks and deck as all are not compatible with certain diameters.
Wheel Width
The width of a scooter wheel is the horizontal measurement in which makes contact with the ground when riding. Scooter wheels come in two main widths. 30mm and 24mm. 30mm only being created recently, and is becoming more and more preferred by majority of seasoned riders. 30mm wheels have a larger point of contact with the ground, in conclusion giving you a better balance point for manuals and also more control during fakies. 24mms will have less material ultimately giving you a lighter wheel.
Wheel Diameter Compatibility
Wheel diameter compatibility refers to the compatibility between the wheel's outer circumference, fork, and deck. When choosing your fork and deck assure, they fit the diameter of your wheel. This info can be found in store with one of our staff, or online in the products description.
Wheel Width Compatibility
Wheel width compatibility refers to the compatibility between the wheel's horizontal measurement (width), fork, and deck. Like wheel Diameter compatibility When choosing your fork and deck assure, they fit the width of your wheel. This info can be found in store with one of our staff, or online in the products description.
Wheel Hardness
The scooter wheels durometer scale ranges from 0-100a, 100a being the hardest. Although most wheels are 85a they range in hardness. Harder urethane typically can last longer and is faster, while softer urethane can wear down quicker it usually allows for more grip. Like most factors of picking your scooter parts, your wheel hardness is one hundred percent preference based.
Core Design
The core design of your wheel refers to the depiction of your wheels core broken down in to three types hollow core, full core, and spoked. There are no detrimental differences to the wheels core other than weight and structural integrity. Hollow core being the lightest and weakest and full core being the heaviest and strongest. Keep in mind that your cores design is very much a matter of preference.
Sinature
There are a very wide range of signature parts in the scooter world. From, bars to wheels, and all the way to decks. A signature part is a special product that is designed in collaboration with a rider on those specific brands team. Riders get to choose their own graphic and colour in most cases, expressing who they are on and off the scooter. It is important to support and purchase signature parts, because a portion always goes back to that specific rider who puts their life on the line every day, for the love of scootering.
Bearing Type
Scooter bearings are rated using the ABEC rating system. It includes grades 1,3,5,7, and 9. The higher the ABEC rating, the tighter the tolerances are, making the bearing a more precision part. Keep in mind the higher the ABEC rating the higher the price point will be on the bearings.
Scooter Grips Information
Grip Design
When buying grips, it is important to pick a design comfortable for you. Varying with different shapes and compositions, the grips design is one hundred percent personal preference. Luckily most scooter grips packaging is designed so you are able to test them while shopping in store.
Grip Length
Like grip design your scooter grips length is also personal preference. Generally, most grips are about the same length. Don’t be shy to pick longer grips as they can always be cut down to a shorter measurement.
Grip Hardness
Like grip length your scooter grips hardness is also personal preference. Softer grips are generally preferred by seasoned riders. Keep in mind that there is a break in period for grips, so they may feel harder until fully broken in. If you are interested in trying harder grips you can always boil them down after that fact to make them softer.